Northern Thai Cuisine (Part 2): The Foods I ate in Chiang Mai

Christmas 2016 for me was spent in Chiang Mai, capital of the ancient kingdom of Lanna. Needless to say, it is also the capital of Northern Thai food. On my first full day in the city, after a 4-hr visit to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and the Bhubing Palace (read the details of the visit here), I immediately went to Tong Tem Toh. It is a very unassuming restaurant viewed from the outside.

Tong Tem Toh (photo credit: Loukafai Blog)

But there was a very long queue! I was there past 1PM but the queue was unbelievably long. It took me another 30-40 minutes of waiting just to get to my table. It sure was worth the wait though, I had my most delicious Northern Thai meal here. Here are the dishes I had there,

Appetizer, Nam Phrik Noom, Roasted Green Chilli Peppers served with Steamed Greens on the Side

Nam Phrik Noom

This dish is made of roasted green chilli peppers spiced and salted. It has a great smokey flavour but refreshing and surprisingly mild heat.

Mains, Kaeng Hang Lay, Burmese Braised Pork

Khaeng Hang Lay

This is an example of Burmese influence on Lanna cuisine. This braised pork uses the same technique we have for the Visayan Humba dish, although it is definitely not on the sweet side, and it has peanuts to add texture of crunchiness to the dish. The meat was melt-in-the-mouth, big hurrah to slow-cooking!

Star of the Meal, Jeen Som Mok Kai, Steamed Fermented Sausage and Egg Wrapped in Banana Leaf

Jeen Som Mok Kai

Boy, this was an absolute stunner for me! Made basically of pork with probably a 60-40 fat to lean meat ratio (goodness my heart was probably screaming with all those fat!), fermented for 3-4 days and then steamed in banana leaf. It tasted with a good balance of salt and sour with the creaminess of what else - pork fat! And if those pork fat weren't enough, the dish has egg! For all heart-healthy people, I strongly recommend this one. But, if you have a history of heart problem, haha, better consult with your doctor first!

As for Christmas Day, I had a meal at Huen Phen, another restaurant specialising on Northern Thai cuisine. Here's what I had there,

Khao Ngiaw, Steamed Rice with Pork Blood

Khao Ngiaw

This is basically white rice mixed with pork blood and then steamed wrapped in banana leaf. It tasted delicious!

Pork Blood Curry Lanna Style

Pork Blood Curry Lanna Style

This is practically a Northern feast staple, blocks of pork blood (we call it betamax in the Philippines) in a mildly spiced curry sauce. It was a bit of a let down for me though because I think I had it cold and a bit on the bland side.

Tam Khanun, Jackfruit Spiced Salad

Tam Khanun

This is the Northern Thai version of Ensaladang Langka, but sans vinegar and coconut milk. Instead it is spiced with chillis and ginger. This one was yummy too!

Gaeng Ho, Mixed Vegetable Stir-fry

 Gaeng Ho

This is just mixed vegetables stir-fried with vermicelli. The mixed greens balances the meaty dishes  I had. But then again, it was served cold, it could have been made better if it was rather kept warm.