Tuesday, September 1, 2015

La Vie en Vientiane (Part 2): The 5 Must-See Attractions

Wat Sisaket, Laos foremost Royal Temple
One of the things I loved with my hotel is its very central location: the extra money I spent on the accommodation was offset by the fact that I needed not take any tuktuk to the attractions.

For the tourist pressed on time and have only 1 day to spend in Vientiane, the 5 must-see attractions are the following:

1. Wat Sisaket

Brief History / Description:

This Wat was built by King Anouvong in 1818 and was the only temple spared during the Siamese sacking of Vientiane in 1827. This was the country's main political temple, in the sense that, this is where the nation's nobles take their oath of fealty to newly crowned Kings. When the French established the Kingdom as its protectorate, the nobles came here to swear fealty to the colonial government too.
Verandah enclosing Wat Sisaket, something peculiar to this Wat as many other Wats in Laos do not have this.
Thousand Buddhas surrounding the Wat.




Things to See
The "thousand buddhas" on display. The murals inside the "sim" or main hall. The untouched "mondop" or temple library which is beside Lane Xang Ave.

Attraction Fee
Foreigners - 5,000 Kip or approximately  PhP 30
Locals - 2,000 Kip
The Mondop or Library / Archives of Wat Sisaket protruding to Lane Xang Ave. and half way out of the enclosure already.

The Main Hall of Wat Sisaket, this is about as close one can get a photo. Photography is not allowed inside.
Opening Hours
Morning - 8:00 am to 12nn
Afternoon - 1:00pm to 4:00pm


2. Wat Simuang
The main hall or "sim" of Wat Simaung.


Brief History / Description
This Wat was built on a former site of a Khmer temple. The ruins of this ancient temple can still be seen at the back of the "sim". Vientiane's guardian spirit or "naga" is said to reside in the "lak meaung" or the city's stone pillar, gilded in gold and covered in saffron cloth. Legend has it that the place has been consecrated with human sacrifice, a girl which was pregnant at that time.

Things to See
The "lak meaung" or sacred stone pillar of Vientiane housing they city's guardian spirit. The blackened teak ceiling due to the constant burning of candles and/or incense over centuries. The ruins of the ancient Khmer temple. Numerous worshippers doing various devotions.

Remnants of the ancient Khmer site (black mound) enclosed by a shrine.

Attraction Fee
Free

Opening Hours
No official opening hours, as with many Wats in Laos, this could mean from sunrise to sundown.

3. Patouxai

Brief History / Description

Built in the late 1950's to commemorate the heroes of the war by the Royal government. Many see the monument as an analogy to the Arc de Triomphe, as it is in one of the endpoint of Lane Xang Avenue, the main thoroughfare of the city much analogised to the Champs Elysées in Paris. After the revolution, some of the hindu carvings of this monument which was associated to the now defunct Royal government, was chipped-off. There remains still numerous carvings that are very attractive.

Things to See
The carvings, both inside, on the ceiling and outside.


Hindu Iconography remnant of the now defunct Old Royal Government.



Attraction Fee
Supposedly 3,000 Kip.
But I don't know why I was not charged any, it was probably because I didn't bother climbing up or because I looked liked a local.

Opening Hours
8:00 am - 5:00 pm

4. Pa That Luang
Pa That Luang, National symbol of Laos


Brief History / Description
Built on an ancient Khmer site, the present "that" or stupa is already a reconstruction from the 1930's. The original stupa was said to be built by King Setthatilat in the mid-16th century. It was deserted much like the entire city after the Siamese Invasion in 1827-28. Later, around the turn of the 20th century it was reduced to a pile of rubble by Chinese brigands looking for gold.

Things to See
The main golden stupa and 30 minor stupas. Small buddhas housed in the cloisters.
That Luang seen from the parade grounds.


Attraction Fee
Supposedly 5,000 Kip, but I didn't pay any, see explanation below.

Opening Hours
Supposedly 8:00 am - 5:00 pm, except on Mondays and public holidays.
I came on a Sunday trusting this information, but I found the attraction CLOSED. To my mind 23 August is not a Lao public holiday. I am still wondering until now why it was closed.

5. Buddha Park or Wat Xieng Khuan


Brief History / Description

Located some 25-km from the city centre, this park is a relatively recent attraction built in the 1950's by a self-styled holy man Bounleua who merged the Hindu and the Buddhist world views. Bounleua later fled Laos during the revolution and he established a similar attraction right across the Mekong in Thailand. He was said to have gone in seclusion and came out building this concrete sculptures of Hindu and Buddhist icons.

Things to See
The main watermelon-shaped stupa which houses Bounleua's meditation on hell, earth and heaven in sculpture. The many other sculptures scattered throughout the park. The huge reclining buddha statue.

Attraction Fee
5,000 Kip. + 3,000 Kip for cameras.
But, I don't know why I was not asked to pay even if I was bringing a hand-camera.
The watermelon stupa housing the sculpted meditation of Bounleua on hell, earth and heaven.

The entrance to hell.

I already forgot in which place was this, it could either be earth or heaven.



The huge reclining Buddha at the background of other figures of both Hindu and Buddhist iconography.


Opening Hours
Daily 8:00 am - 5:00 pm

Getting There
Taxi Service (200,000 - 250,000 Kip) - can be hired from your hotel or guest house.

Hired Tuktuk (150,000 - 200,000 Kip) - that you can hail anywhere in the city.

Commuter Bus (6,000 Kip) - the cheapest, and which is the one I have personal experience of is by commuter bus. Just go to the Central Terminal at the back of Talat Sao or the Morning Market. Then ride the Green Bus no. 14. This bus will pass by the Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge but it's ultimate destination is somewhere off Wat Xieng Khuan. Do remember that buses in Laos generally do not have stop-buttons, you have to shout to signal the driver to stop, or, you can tell the driver to stop you at the Buddha Park and then sit near beside him to ensure he remembers you. The locals generally know the Buddha Park as Wat Xieng Khuan, so do remember this name.



To be continued...

    
    

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